Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
